How to build downloadable scaled card models?

With this study I’ll share some of my experience in card modeling. But this is far away from fully completed guide for card model making – I’ll cover only some aspects. Here you’ll also find many links to other sites and documents devoted to card models with much more information. I’ll try to keep these links actual.

This document aren’t completed – it will be updated and developed.

Required basic tools and materials:

Appropriate card board for printing the model

I’m using the cardboard with weight 100 g/m². I don’t recommend use of cardboard with weight more than 120/130 g/m². If you are using Jet printer it is better to use special InkJet paper – The quality of the prints looks quite different on it.

In the section 7.2 in the Steve Brown's FAQs you’ll find very detailed information.

Scissors.

Sharp modeling knife.

This is standard weapon for the model builder, but I’m using scalpel with changeable blades. I found it more precission.

Blunt knife for scoring the fold lines.

Ruler.

It is good if it is metal ruler - The plastic ruler can be easy damaged by the blade.

Pincette for small elements.

Needle.

Glue.

What glue do we have to use?. This is a very important question and as most of the important questions it has no simple answer. I think it will be very good if you take a look on Frank-Michael Goldmann's Tips and Tricks page Frank-Michael Goldmann's Tips and Tricks page - Glue section.

I’ll only say what I think and what I use:

I think that there isn’t universal glue. We have to use a set of glues. I divide it in 3 classes:

1. Dry glue or glue on water base for gluing the printed sheets on thick cardstock (when it is necessary).

2. Glue for base assembly. Here it is better if you use two types of glue – one gel and one non gel glue. For example I’m using ‘UHU extra Alleskleber’ and ‘EVO-STIK Multi-purpose’ Clear Adhesive or ‘BISON Clear Adhesive’.

3. Moment glue – for the very small details, which have to obtain better strength. Here I’m again using gel and non gel glue – ‘Locktite - Supper attack’ and ‘Henkel – Super Bond’.

Additional materials.

Pins, toothpicks.

Transparent foil for the glazing of canopy.

Some words for printing the model.

Page format.

There are two wide used page formats:

My models are in Letter format, but I’m using only the printable area which is section between Letter and A4 formats. In this case my models can be printed on both formats without loosing the elements.

Printer.

You can use any InkJet or Color LaserJet printer. In case you are using InkJet printer it is better if you choose appropriate InkJet cardboard. The resolution of files is 200 DPI.

Acrobat Reader.

To print the model you’ll need Adobe Acrobat Reader. You can download it absolutely free. I’ll put some hints about its use here:

1. Don’t try to open the files directly from the internet. Download the files first on your local hard drive and then open the files with Acrobat Reader.

2. Especially if you are printing on A4 sheet check ‘Auto-rotate and center’ option in print menu.

3. The ‘Page scaling’ option has to be set to ‘none’.

4. After printing the page check is the scale correct. This can be done easily in the following way: Every sheet with elements of my models has the scale bar shown below. As you see it is in inches and millimeters for universality. This bar is in scale 1:1. You can simple measure it. If the units are equal to the ruler’s units it means the scale is right.

Some common assembly tips

Keep your hands always clean during the work on the model. Do not allow smearing with glue.

Read the instructions all the way through one time before cutting out any of the parts.

Score all fold lines.

This operation is preformed by using a ruler or drawing curve. Drive the blade of the blunt knife on the folding lines in a way to squeeze the card board without cutting through.

I prefer to score all fold lines of details allocated on one page at once, before starting to cut any of them.

Don’t cut all parts at once!

It isn’t a good idea, because with cutting the element you are loosing it’s relation with other elements on the element’s sheet. Usually in simple models (like mine) with small number of parts, placement of elements on the sheet hints the way of building. Also take care of the orientation of the details, before cutting them.

The cutting of the parts is recommended to be done in the middle of the contour lines.

Test accuracy of element ( its shape and fitting ), before gluing it to the corresponding elements.

Don’t be quick, but be exact – model making isn’t a race.

Some tricks.

Easy way to make pipes.

This trick was shown to me by Mr. Emil Zarkov.

Take a paper or thin foil band and start to roll it. Make the first winding as small as it possible. After that let it to ‘bite’ the tabbed edge of pipe element and continue to roll it (this is shown on the figure below).

After you finish rolling the band, fix it by a rubber band or paper-clamp. Keep it in this state enough time, while the element obtains right pipe shape.

I think this method is cool and works well for pipes with diameter greater than some millimeters. On its basis I have made one tool, which is very useful. It is shown on the figure below. It is very suitable for pipes with diameter from 2-3 mm up to 10 mm.

For very small pipes with diameter up to 3-4 mm I made another tool. It is simple rifted metal pipe. The tool and its use are shown on the figure below. As pipe can be used insert for ball-point pen or hypodermic needle.

Links, where you can find much more information.

www.fiddlersgreen.net - FAQs and ‘Tips and tricks’ sections

http://www.cardmodelers.org/fmg.html - Frank-Michael Goldmann's Tips and Tricks